Inside Goomheo’s Rule-breaking Take on Genderless Fashion

ByMarcella L. Bouffard

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LONDON — South Korean vogue designer Goom Heo, who was shortlisted as just one of the 19 semifinalists for this year’s LVMH Prize for Younger Designers, does not care how the field categorizes her is effective.

Her edgy, subversive, and genderless types, manufactured mainly by draping directly on the body, were being a strike between the London vogue crowd immediately after she won her next L’Oréal Qualified Award for her MA graduation collection.

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She was the very first student in Central Saint Martins’ background to be awarded the best prize twice. She initial bagged the honor in 2017 with her BA graduation selection.

Lulu Kennedy created her an present to join the youthful designer guidance system Vogue East soon following her graduation.

She showed with Fashion East for four seasons, from tumble 2020 to spring 2022, primarily digitally due to COVID-19. Things became more tough as she was stuck in South Korea until very last October because of to the pandemic soon after she traveled again there for denim generation.

A look from Goomheo’s fall 2022 collection. - Credit: A look from Goomheo RTW fall 2022 collection

A appear from Goomheo’s tumble 2022 assortment. – Credit rating: A appear from Goomheo RTW fall 2022 assortment

A glance from Goomheo RTW fall 2022 collection

“I was only planning to go again for 3 months but I could not occur again since my flight was canceled so numerous situations. Also, COVID-19 was acquiring incredibly really serious there, so if I go again to London, I experienced to quarantine. So I resolved to continue to be,” Heo discussed during a Zoom simply call.

Reconnecting with her lifestyle throughout that time allowed her to see how a great deal of her gender-fluid layout was unknowingly motivated by K-pop, as perfectly as cartoons and gaming. Even on the area Korean society draws a pretty crystal clear line concerning gentlemen and females, the designer explained.

Now that she is back in London with a drop collection that even more exemplifies her gender fluid and out-of-the-box get on men’s trend, as well as an LVMH Prize nomination, Heo believes that she is prepared to get back again to the activity in total force, irrespective of regardless of whether she tends to make it to the ultimate round of the LVMH Prize.

She also unveiled that she programs to showcase independently during the men’s trend cycle from June in London to create a more robust romantic relationship with customers.

A look from Goomheo’s fall 2022 collection. - Credit: Courtesy

A glance from Goomheo’s fall 2022 collection. – Credit history: Courtesy


“For me, it does not make any difference if I get into the last or get the significant prize. Having the LVMH Prize nomination is already a enormous recognition. It presents me 200 per cent determination to do my following selection,” she mentioned.

The pieces Heo took to the LVMH Prize showroom have been from her tumble 2022 collection, “Infinite Glacier,” which highlighted sculptural puffer items, shorts with XL fur pockets, a equipped jacket with embroidered lapels down all the way to ankles, and statement boots with 3D printed oval buckles, which Heo hopes can become a signature for the brand name, observed equally on male and feminine types.

“It definitely doesn’t make any difference what gender I am developing for. It is the buyers who are choosing what kind of outfits they are wearing, as an alternative of me,” Heo stated, introducing that while some buyers did get confused at the beginning, the kind of suppliers that value her aesthetics, these types of as London’s Machine-A and H.Lorenzo in Los Angeles, experienced no challenge offering her layouts in the stop.

A look from Goomheo’s fall 2022 collection. - Credit: Courtesy

A search from Goomheo’s fall 2022 assortment. – Credit rating: Courtesy


Despite the attention, Heo’s journey in fashion hasn’t been straightforward. Similar to a lot of Asian college students, Heo’s mom and dad ended up furious at the beginning when she explained to them that she was likely to study style.

“I was supposed to be an interpreter involving Chinese, English and Korean. I went to the United States for that. During the fifty percent-expression in my senior year, I viewed this documentary about the world’s ideal a few manner faculties, and Central Saint Martins was 1 of them. Soon after that, I just decided that I wanted to do fashion. I stop my large university for that and my dad and mom have been super mad, but afterwards I bought into the basis program. So which is how I started out,” Heo recalled.

The simple fact that Heo was under no circumstances professionally properly trained as an art scholar like the greater part of the relaxation gave her the flexibility to structure in her have way, which mainly involves draping the garment directly on mannequins, rather of drawing patterns very first.

“I cannot draw. I am still not self-confident about that. I generally tell my interns: ‘you just have to see how I drape,’” she said.

“But I have this wonderful pattern cutter, who has been working with me considering that my B.A. collection for 7 years now. He understands me and he is the a person who produced me notice that I don’t have to function the regular way. I can break all the policies and not care about whether or not it is for adult men or women,” she included.

Start Gallery: Goomheo RTW Tumble 2022 [Photos]

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